I am making a trapping hammer and was wondering how long to make the digger part of the hammer. I am going to be using Ar 500 steel so I really just want to buy what I need and not have a lot of excess, because its quite pricey.

Pm me and I can measure some of mine when I get the chance.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Estwing-28-oz-Smooth-Face-Steel-Head-Steel-Framing-Hammer/1000438821

last forever. works great

Make it so it works for you where you are. Consider what type of ground you will be driving it in and how deep the freeze is during trapping season.

I would say around three inches. That’s about what my Groundhog three-in-tool and my trapping hammer are.

If you use rebar stakes, grind U in the digger part and make a claw out of it to pull them with.

Mild steel is all that comes on the ones for sale. Works fine been using the same one longer than you have been alive.
Another issue is every time we have weld up ar 500 spinning targets they come apart . The impacts break the wields ever noticed how targets have holed to bolt on to the holders!. I'm pretty sure it requires different rod than a 7018 to hold up. Infact I know it does but can't remember for sure what rod it was I had to use on a job 25 years ago when I was using ar plate for wear plates on the conveyer systems under the coal piles at a power plant. I think it was 309 rods for stainless but would not bet on it. I do know 7018s won't hold up to getting shot repeatedly o. Ar 500.

I'm not home but frome memory the piece of steel is around 6 inches 2 inches. Half exposed for digging the other 3 overlapping the top of hammer head and welded to it. Mild steel works fine save yourself money time and frustration.. better off painting it orange if you want anything custom. Better than going back to your last set looking for a dirt covered slightly rusted hammer that fell out of your bucket and is not at the last set where you think it was left but you walked over it half way between where you wanted to use it and the previous set and now kicked a few more leaves over it being in a hurry to go back and get it. Don't worry you may find it sometime this year or in a year or two.

I like my hammer and pliers standing out.

I think I made mine 3" or 2/12"

3 to 3 1/2” of blade coming off the back is plenty. Like stated mild steel is plenty stout enough no need for ar steel. When your cutting edge starts to loose its edge just hit it with a file real quick to put an edge back on it. Make sure you cutting edge angle is the top of the blade helps keep crap from flying in your face when chipping away at frozen or harder ground. Here’s an example of how you want the angle on the blade.

Thanks for the input

Hammer,
Thanks for the input on the cutting edge, I've always made mine the other way, and yes I get frozen dirt in my face. Also, do NOT angle the blade. Mild steel will bend, a couple years ago I was trapping an area without much snow and making dirt sets right through the cold part of the winter. I bent two digging hammers in three trap beds and had to go get the Pulaski. A Pulaski is a great tool for making trap beds in frozen dirt, but it is a lot more of a pain to pack and you need to pack a seperate hammer still if driving stakes.

Original make it make it longer than needed. Simple to shorten to what you like..

I bought one off the hammer and knocked about an inch off it with the chop saw and a grinder... Should be perfect for me

About 6" piece of truck spring on mine, minus the weld overlap.

Use 1/4 " or better or it will bend when you hit the dirt or root.