My 9 volt battery went dead on my Stack On, twist digital key pad , insert new battery.
Over ride is a key that goes inside of that.
If you screw up there's a failsafe that collapses the bolts on the door.

That's when it gets expensive, but is extra insurance.
ETA- my safe will blink orange with every number entered, then the # ..
Blinks green, grab spinner and twist.
If the battery is going dead it blinks twice on orange with an audible.

^^^^yea,,I want to deal with all that.

Have an electronic dail safe at work , biggest pain is hitting numbers wrong and having to wait 5 mins to reset. As for the battery issue maybe once every 2 years it needs changed. Takes a couple mins. The actual fire safes we have have are the same change the code once a year and the battery no problems for over 25 years.

Best bet for protecting anything in a "safe" (residential storage container) is to have it rigged with a chain through the wall so you can yank it out of the building in the event of a big fire.

Giant oven and EVERYTHING inside will be ruined. Have seen videos of them long after fire is out and still steaming water if it is sprayed on them

If you go with a RSC make it difficult to get to the sides or top and bolt it down. Sides and tops are thin and easily defeated with an angle grinder

They do make vaults but they are stupid heavy and $$$$$

Unless they are different a key pad that you can get to the battery ends is easy to open. Saw a lock smith do this removed battery took an extension cord and wired positive to hot meg to common. Plugged it in. Power surge opened the locks. Smiled said NEVER own a key pad safe. I’ve noticed some brands now you need a key to get to battery

I spent about 10k When I made the gun valt at my old house. I had to dig down to the basement footer and replace the drainage tile to stop the wall from leaking and bowing and cracking the wall any more. I was worried about the wall Sr
till. being weak so poored another rfooter and laid mor block and went ahead and just made a new room off to the side of the house and another concrete porch over the top of it. then cut a hole in the wall and made my salt door. hidden behind peg board and a tool box. the secured door not the camo Door slides like a pocket door and is 3/8 steel with pins that lock I to the concrete floor and ceiling. since it slides you can't get locked in from the outside and it does not require space on the inside for the door to swing in.

Naturally when I got the 10'x 18' gun room done I bought the farm and moved. Now I don't even have my reloading presses set up. someday I dream of building a replacement but it is not likely to happen due rp time and Money. took me 2 years to get that one done.


I loke this design over traditional safes


No fighting to get guns out from behind others, only 18" deep and double door mean you don't need a huge space dedicated to the safe.

I will likely build a few of these when I get my metal working stuff set up.

FYI - for anyone building a new home. Two things to consider. If you plan ahead and design a vault/safe into the home, add extra floor joists for the load. Over the years, I've done many for customers while building their home. Additionally, having a telehandler and/or crane on site, we set them during the process.

Too often front porches are designed/built as wasted space beneath. Since they mostly require foundation, its not much of an added expense to capture that space as a safe room/ storage/ vault. I add environmental control for heat/humidity and get diebold vault door and cast it into the foundation. Makes for an awesome walk in vault. Had a few clients that bought vault doors when a bank was being demo'd. they are freaking heavy to deal with, but make for an impressive storage rom

I have a very big cannon and an oxbow. Cannon has very good customer service. Key pad went bad on my oxbow, called cannon and they sent me a new upgraded one for no charge

I have two... one with spin dial lock and one with battery lock. Every time I open spin dial lock I want to rip it off and put battery lock on. It takes four times longer to open. Occasionally I'll stop slightly past the number and have to start over. There's a reason almost all new safes have battery locks. If battery starts going dead you get an alarm. If you're too dense to change it when this happens and it goes dead all you do is replace battery and you're back in business.

Browning but it’s 35 years old preferably manual lock no electronics here to mess up

Unless you're spending 10k plus on a true "gun safe", there really isn't much difference between a $1,000 Cannon gun cabinet and $5000 browning gun cabinet. A thief can get into either one relatively quickly. I would buy the cheapest you can find and then bolt it down in the corner somewhere, or ideally in a closet or build and encasement around it.. This prevents thieves from being able to get any leverage to pry open the door. They can still cut the side open if its exposed.

ol dad