Hoping someone could tell me how effective a 120 coni box may be on skunk,possum, coon? Needing something dog resistant and conis are on a 3 day check for us vs daily for foothold or dog proofs. Just trying to remove predators around the farm before nesting season. 120s are as big as we can go on the ground without recession them 7". I let an older guy coyote hunt with his dogs here and don't want them trapped either, the older gent is getting slow and getting to a trapped dog would be difficult for him.

Would likely use belise 120s.

Thanks

Spread your triggers wide apart and outwards away from the conibear.

I ran up to 250, 160 and 220 boxes at a time for eight years trapping for Delta Waterfowl. I feel running 120 boxes for skunk, possum and coon would be a step in the wrong direction. During that time some 160 and 220 boxes with smaller openings were used ( to make them dog proof ) and I felt like there were more refusals. I can see coon reaching in them more then they do with 160 and 220 boxes. How much land are you talking about. It takes pretty aggressive trapping to make a increase in the hatch rate, rather then just changing who ate the eggs. The smaller the area the harder it is. Does the guy coyote hunt year around? Taking predators out too early will do little to help increase the hatch rate. Can you trap during the nesting season ( mid March- mid July ) Do you feel the 7" recession increases the refusal rate?

He does not run year round but our season ends March 15th. We own almost all the good cover in the section so I would be trapping around 300 acres. Coons are not really something I'm targeting I'm just bound to end up with a handful. I think the recession would be okay with 220s but I'd still worry about his dogs.

From what I saw, if you have to stop trapping the 15th of March on that small an area you would do little if anything to help the hatch rate. Here the nest eating predators don't move much before mid March. Some years they will depending on the weather. But there is way more movement after mid March then before. I feel a 120 box would work better for possum and skunks then it would coon. A coon can fit in that size a hole if it wants, but it has to want too. Nothing like belly crawling into a box. Can you use cage traps.

I could use cages but it would be back on 1 day checks. My work schedule is pretty tight so the 3 day checks are a major draw.

I appreciate you sharing your expertise.

If you look up....fish, fur, game,avoid the reach.........on net.....it comes up easily......photos and article on 220 in box mounted on tree....I used it in barn for racoon to avoid cats and other non targets...........also there's another completely different set up by someone else using...... 5 X 5 ......in box showing with plexiglass......... how to get behind neck catch with racoon........I'm thinking the 5 X 5 was on trapperman forum

the 120 works great on skunks but a coon willreach in

Work great on the little one pound civets!

We have same rules as to size of body grips on land. After trying just about every iteration of trap, box and bucket, I have settled on a 160 in a bottom entry vertical box. Preferably a Belisle. They are twice the trap of any other 160.

Box has a bait shelf inside, up high. Once trained to use them, a coon will go in with no hesitation. Leave no more than 4 or 5 inches of gap between bottom of box and a solid base, so to get in, they have to push forward with back feet, push up with front feet, arching their back and leading with their head. They can't get in any other way. Even 4 inches doesn't slow them down. If they want in, they flow under that like water. Every coon caught that way has been found laying on the floor with perfect neck strike and graveyard dead.

Vertical boxes up off the ground with a 4" gap eliminates virtually all incidentals as well as reach ins or a suitcase catch. Don't want either one of those.

I've got about a dozen cubbies with 120's I use for skunks and mink made from drain tile. I cut my slots in and then put a piece of OSB on the back, they work great!

We have found a coon will more readily stick its head in a small hole if hole gets larger inside. If you use 120s, use a larger cubby with trap centered in opening. Put grass around and under the whole trap to fill the extra space, lots of long grass. Have cubby 16"-18" deep with bait all the way to rear to avoid the reach. Cut a U in floor of cubby at front to keep coons feet on solid ground while entering kill zone and minimize chance of cubby moving as coon enters.

I use wooden cubbies with Duke 155's which have a 5' jaw spread which is all I'm allowed on land.. I take fisher, coon, opossum, and skunk with them.
I do use coni-pans which allow the animal to get farther in before firing.
The trap spring pushing against the wood throws the trp onto the animal. On skunks, fisher, and opossums I get a double strike suitcase catch.
On coon I get a strike directly behind the skull.
Instant kill on all animal, even the biggest coon.