I am thinking about trying these out and am wondering what the good folks on here think about them.

https://fntpost.com/product/body-grip-expand-a-pans

I have tried wood pans but on the bigger traps like 160s or 220s, the wood pans only block a small section in the middle of the trap and these look like the cover most of the opening. On smaller 120s size traps I like the idea of these being a little lower profile than bending the trigger wires with a wood pan giving the animals a slightly bigger opening.

Thoughts?

Schmattz

They are much easier to install on single bolt trigger assemblies like on belisles. You probably will need to also tune the trigger/dog as they make the trap pretty sensitive, to the point of the traps firing off on you. Deepen the notch and make sure the dog fully engaged the jaw.

i have heard some good ideas on using pans on the bigger conis as it helps stop reach ins by raccoons but still set it off when they try to get through the jaws and hit with their chest

Good stuff...killer on skunks in body grippers.

I run them on my 155s for marten and fisher. Takes a little bit to get the trigger tuned right as they are heavy so make trigger sensitive. I usually run them on the 3rd notch and file the notch. I bend the pan up ever slightly pointed in the trap. Still get some misses occasionally but few refusals.

I made a couple out of 3/8" plywood to fit Belisle #330s for beaver. I made the pans about 7" wide and 4" deep. To attached them to the trigger wires I bent the wires in a wide V and then stapled the wires to the bottom using an Arrow T-50 squeeze stapler to hold it where I wanted it, then covering the wires with Gorilla Glue. Once cured, they were absolutely locked in, with zero movement of the pan. Of course, I bent the wires in such a fashion that the pan was on the bottom, with a slight tilt up. Those traps caught quite a few beaver and are still in use. The thing to remember is try to set them so the pan is oriented with the beaver "in" the trap when it steps on the pedal. It will work either way but depending on how you stabilize the trap, you may miss a good strike if the beaver, (or any critter), steps on the pan before entering the jawws.

I like them for 5”x5” traps in trails for coons. Makes it easier for them to stick their head through such a small space.

Use them , like them, I would only recommend them if you don't trap near me.

Only had luck using them (pans) in cubbies so i left that one where I left the cubby (for mink). It is good for a baited set for skunks as Mchewk stated BUT ---- it pretty much resolves that trap to that set and I lose the flexibility of any site. I set a goodly # of holes and trails w/BG's (110 size to 220 size) on dry land, water logs, water channels etc.. As alaska said, "set them so the pan is oriented". Well, I am not smart enough to Know if my quarry is down the hole coming out or outside going in or ,,, coming from the left side of the trail/log/channel headed right or on the right side of the trail/log/channel headed left. Since horizontal cubbies are not very effective for mink here, if I use one, I skip the pan and position the trigger on the bottom. MY Experience you can quote me - "You will catch more mink with their feet hitting a trigger than their shoulders" and whether its a foot trap or BG, I set so their "dancing" gets them more consistently into my shed than a lasso around their body does. ..........................the mike..... P. S. I have no qualms setting a 120 or 160 BG size for/over a badger hole and have caught my share of badgers, mink, coons, rabbits, skunks and opossums with a bottom trigger and firmly believe I would not have if I used a pan............... the mike again