I was a stockmaker predominately since 1980 for a living. Did a good number of refinishes as well. One of the main things for a good oil finish is it should be worked in the wood rather than smeared on top. Also you want the pores filled and level surface. On refinish removeing plastic/epox type finishes it helps to use a remover but it will open your pores so needs to be refilled, a couple different ways to go but is vital really. After the wood is sanded , I go to 220 grit Garnet Parper, and ready for finish I like to give it a couple penetrating coats. Then fill pores either by wet sanding finish in small circular pathes joined togherther I like wwet or dry 400 grit or 320 dependin on the wood. Leave the mud overnight, Sand it back to the surface using w/d 600 grit wet with water or I like thinned finish, like thick water feel. Do that till it's totally level and filled.For finish I like Artist Linseed thinned with Artist Turpentine and Jap Dryer, again a thick water consistency. Or Tru Oil or Tung oil also work but keep them thin. Work the oil in and wipe off and repeat till done, takes a bit but better than thick. Put in a cabinet so it doesn't collect dust. If you want to cut back on the shine I like White Scotch Brite dipped in finish and wiped down. Steel wool can imbed little flecks in the pores and do bad things. Pretty much what they like to call a London Best Grade. Stain is done before finish remember
