The KB is a pretty simple and fast stabilizer.

I did expect you to be able to figure it out. Guess I was wrong....this time.

You could have caught way more than that if you hadnt been messing with those junky stabilizers.

Dang Swamp Wolf, I thought I was really cutting the cheese by catching my otter limits up here this past season but not now!!

Kurt has always tested his products before they were sold to the public and he recognizes that not everyone is a fan, that's fine but calling equipment "junk" because you don't like it?? It's like saying you don't know how to hunt because you don't use a bow or a pistol or whatever!

I tried them and I consider them junk,dont have a bird over vernacular.
Maybe the best thing since sliced bread for you and others but for me junk and reasons given which were verified by a couple other posters..

Maybe . . . . those who say they're junk really don't know how to effectively use them.

Boco, you let me down. I expect this from the Beav.

Not rocket science to use them,lol,just I have more efficient ways.
Not gonna mess around with unnecessary stuff that only slows me down or cause misses.
I need my beaver traps rock solid and dont have the inkling to untangle stuff all the time.
If you like them fine,dont know why people want to get argumentative because I consider them junk,them arguing cant change what I know.

Just keep cutting or looking for the right sticks at every set.....it'll be OK.....

Seldom,
I had three or four winters where I had the right "otter trapping conditions" and I went at 'em hard. I miss those days....and that otter market.

I actually found that in my situation I usually had to add stabilization to them so I kind of scratched my head and said what's the point then? And in probably most of my potential sets they just wouldn't work and I had better ways to stabilize. Wasn't ever a fan.

The tangling happens after the trapping is done ,in the pile of traps and gear in the truck, unnoticed at first until you need something…

I never had any "tangled mess" problems. The Belisle 280 didn't give the otters enough time to tangle anything.[/quote]
This. Many Alaskan otter died with this set-up. ^
My current use is an ADC job that has marmots digging holes under buildings that are skirted below the siding, with steel posts for foundation. Then a slab for the floor system. These are huge 2 story buildings, and the marmots have several entrances at each building. They have a little run-out from the hole, and I can guide them into a coni, but stabilizing, without going full Rube Goldburg, is a challenge easily solved with a KB. Some of the "dens" also go under the edge of large pavement parking lots, as well as pavement lumber drying areas. I have used the KB stabilizers for a long time and am very familiar with them. I think I have found a source for my needs on The Shed.
Have taken 20 so far on this property, but I am still seeing them every day. Putting a dent in them, and may never get them all as the surrounding properties are also loaded with them. job security.

They aren’t enough stabilizer for a 330 body grip,IMO, there are others I like better. But I have used them a bit. And mine have a cable to attach to the 6’ of cable that is on every trap. I like coni-stands better for the trapping I do.

I would indeed use stands if the ground allowed. That's the rub on a current ADC job. "Ground" is either pavement, or rocks, clay, and gravel mix.

I don't know how you could use a KB stabilizer In my conditions when I trapped In SC. 2 tobacco stakes driven in at an inverted V let you stabilize that 330 or 280 in just about any condition I ran into. And it let me position my trap at any depth. Try that with a KB stabilizer. My best 2 months catch was 82 otter. The feds even looked into my catch when I took them too NAFA. Some of those stakes were there for 10 years or so. And I bet If I went down there next year, they would still be in place.

That's what I do too but rather than stakes I use pieces of rebar because they fit in those tight Belisle springs. Plus with rebar I can pound them in in cobblestone/gravel bottoms.

Yes...location determines the stabilizer use. The KBs are the fastest and easiest on dryland trails/crossovers and shallow(inches deep) streams.

I use KB's when trapping otter with BE sets in the little creeks around home. We have a LOT of stone beds, so driving in any kind of stake is difficult. I turn the springs up vertical and slide a stick through the eyes and into the bank, which is mud.
I use a KB on the bottom, to keep the trap from swinging. The setup has worked well for me, in this application.

Use them for ADC work in ponds with rip rap stone edges, no way to drive a stabilizing stick, rod or h-stand into the ground. For 330's I just use two per trap to add more stabilization because as was mentioned find them to be somewhat tippy with the bigger traps.

Rarely use them fur trapping but glad I have them for the ADC side of the house.

KB's on crossovers probably work good because you can press the legs in the ground a little.

For rocky streams they are useless.

Your area of contact on a rocky creek bottom is limited to the 4 legs with KB's design. They are probably 1/8" diameter.

In order to stabilize a big 330 you need a much larger footprint and much more bottom contact than 4 little legs.

Probably 75% of my trapping is in places you'd never drive rebar in the bottom of the creek. You'd bend 3/8" rebar like a pretzel.

These work a lot better