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Re: Building a new house [Re: WadeRyan] #8631043
Yesterday at 04:13 PM
Yesterday at 04:13 PM
Joined: Nov 2011
New Hampshire
N
Nessmuck Offline
trapper
Nessmuck  Offline
trapper
N

Joined: Nov 2011
New Hampshire
I'd have them make a couple Berms at 100 and 500 yaahds..

Then just shoot off the porch.

Last edited by Nessmuck; Yesterday at 04:15 PM.

It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees.
Re: Building a new house [Re: WadeRyan] #8631072
Yesterday at 05:40 PM
Yesterday at 05:40 PM
Joined: Dec 2011
MT
S
snowy Offline
trapper
snowy  Offline
trapper
S

Joined: Dec 2011
MT
Beautiful nothing like rural living to get as far from people as possible.


Give me a fish, I will eat for a day. Teach me to fish, I will eat for a lifetime
Re: Building a new house [Re: WadeRyan] #8631186
Yesterday at 11:10 PM
Yesterday at 11:10 PM
Joined: Aug 2011
james bay frontierOnt.
B
Boco Offline
trapper
Boco  Offline
trapper
B

Joined: Aug 2011
james bay frontierOnt.
Sounds like a nice house plan.
But that looks like tornado country.


Forget that fear of gravity-get a little savagery in your life.
Re: Building a new house [Re: WadeRyan] #8631253
7 hours ago
7 hours ago
Joined: Jul 2012
Nebraska
WadeRyan Offline OP
trapper
WadeRyan  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Jul 2012
Nebraska
It is definitely Boco, lived here all my life. Typically walk out on the porch to see if you can catch a glimpse. I did suggest reinforcing below the stairs as multiple times I’ve seen the staircase be all that’s standing on a slab, but the contractors say it’s not recommended. We will definitely have something reinforced, if nothing else a shelter bolted to the slab. They made a little progress yesterday. If the rain relaxes for a couple weeks should have concrete and footings soon.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
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Follow me on YouTube if you’re bored

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5Ulx1woYMmCN3IPLB0wwFw


Re: Building a new house [Re: WadeRyan] #8631268
6 hours ago
6 hours ago
Joined: Dec 2006
Lebanon, WI
Randy Wieland Offline
trapper
Randy Wieland  Offline
trapper

Joined: Dec 2006
Lebanon, WI
Congrats. I get the overwhelming part. I've been custom home builder for over 35 years. Whenever it feels like your dealing with too much, stop and think things through 1 room at a time. Can sound crazy, but you can never imagine how many times I had buyers close their eyes and visualize 1 room or 1 wall.

Few things I design standard in every home I build:

42" entry door
All hallways are minimal 43" rough
36" interior doors
If its your "forever" home, design in blocking for hand rails, grab bars, and the things that make end of life easier. think of a w3alker or wheelchair. Additionally, plan out your closets and bathrooms and put blocking in for all your accessories - shelves, towel bars, paper holders and so on

If you consider plastic windows to save a little $$, do yourself a huge favor and bump it up just a little and go with the fiberglass/composite Pella Impervia. Well worth it. frames are so much more stable than vinyl.
If your installers use big-gap foam or open cell to seal the windows and doors - fire them! Low rise/minimal expanding closed cell only

AIR SEAL!!!!! Can not emphasize this enough. $4-5K invested in proper air sealing and improved insulation practices will pay you back thousands in energy costs.

Do mechanical walk-throughs before rough in and think out room by room exactly how you'll use things. Don't accept "code compliant" When you walk into a room, where is the switch for lights...what do you turn on first, another switch for ceiling fan, are they switched separate, are the top halves of the outlets switched to turn on lamps?? Are the outlets spaced so they are accessible from your furniture layout ?? Do you need floor outlets?

Ask for a roof venting calculation from your builder. The vast majority of municipalities don't require it and the roofers/siding applicators just guess and never take 3 minutes to run the calc. If it isn't balanced, you get negative flow out your soffit vents and costs big dollars to run A/C. I've seen many homes blowing hot air down into the insulation instead of rising up through a ridge vent.
https://www.owenscorning.com/en-us/roofing/components/vent-calculator

Don't let any contractor use silicone caulk on any anything exterior. Use a urethane based caulk like Quad or Vulkem. Sillycone fails in a few years and you'll create future problems. Its cheap, so everyone uses it IF they seal their penetrations. If you need to, buy 10 tubes and have it on hand for them to use and demand no silicone.

anyways, just a couple thoughts. If you get hung up on anything, give me a shout. Be more than happy to assist


The only thing worse than losing........Is QUITTING!
Lifetime Member WTA
Re: Building a new house [Re: Randy Wieland] #8631342
2 hours ago
2 hours ago
Joined: Apr 2012
new york
M
mike mason Offline
trapper
mike mason  Offline
trapper
M

Joined: Apr 2012
new york
Originally Posted by Randy Wieland
Congrats. I get the overwhelming part. I've been custom home builder for over 35 years. Whenever it feels like your dealing with too much, stop and think things through 1 room at a time. Can sound crazy, but you can never imagine how many times I had buyers close their eyes and visualize 1 room or 1 wall.

Few things I design standard in every home I build:

42" entry door
All hallways are minimal 43" rough
36" interior doors
If its your "forever" home, design in blocking for hand rails, grab bars, and the things that make end of life easier. think of a w3alker or wheelchair. Additionally, plan out your closets and bathrooms and put blocking in for all your accessories - shelves, towel bars, paper holders and so on

If you consider plastic windows to save a little $$, do yourself a huge favor and bump it up just a little and go with the fiberglass/composite Pella Impervia. Well worth it. frames are so much more stable than vinyl.
If your installers use big-gap foam or open cell to seal the windows and doors - fire them! Low rise/minimal expanding closed cell only

AIR SEAL!!!!! Can not emphasize this enough. $4-5K invested in proper air sealing and improved insulation practices will pay you back thousands in energy costs.

Do mechanical walk-throughs before rough in and think out room by room exactly how you'll use things. Don't accept "code compliant" When you walk into a room, where is the switch for lights...what do you turn on first, another switch for ceiling fan, are they switched separate, are the top halves of the outlets switched to turn on lamps?? Are the outlets spaced so they are accessible from your furniture layout ?? Do you need floor outlets?

Ask for a roof venting calculation from your builder. The vast majority of municipalities don't require it and the roofers/siding applicators just guess and never take 3 minutes to run the calc. If it isn't balanced, you get negative flow out your soffit vents and costs big dollars to run A/C. I've seen many homes blowing hot air down into the insulation instead of rising up through a ridge vent.
https://www.owenscorning.com/en-us/roofing/components/vent-calculator

Don't let any contractor use silicone caulk on any anything exterior. Use a urethane based caulk like Quad or Vulkem. Sillycone fails in a few years and you'll create future problems. Its cheap, so everyone uses it IF they seal their penetrations. If you need to, buy 10 tubes and have it on hand for them to use and demand no silicone.

anyways, just a couple thoughts. If you get hung up on anything, give me a shout. Be more than happy to assist


X2, I did an electrical drawing in my plans and marked everything on the floor w/electrician in each room.

Re: Building a new house [Re: WadeRyan] #8631364
1 hour ago
1 hour ago
Joined: Dec 2011
western alaska
Malukchuk Offline
trapper
Malukchuk  Offline
trapper

Joined: Dec 2011
western alaska
If you plan on putting up christmas lights add some exterior weatherproof gfi outlets in your eaves. Run them separate from other outlets so your not popping breakers.


Water is good for two things, Floating Ships and making Beer.
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