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Re: Footholding beavs with #5 longsprings? [Re: alaska viking] #7307526
07/16/21 05:14 PM
07/16/21 05:14 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 16,746
Central Ohio
LT GREY Offline
trapper
LT GREY  Offline
trapper

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 16,746
Central Ohio
Originally Posted by alaska viking
Can't see any need for "mods" on #5 longsprings.
When I started trapping, around 45+ years ago, a #5 was a bear trap. Caught MANY beaver in #3's. Double longspring #4's accounted for many more.
In a drowning set, trap placement, and the set itself is what counts.



Paws I Trip on all my DLS Beaver traps and. . .

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Re: Footholding beavs with #5 longsprings? [Re: LT GREY] #7307806
07/17/21 06:37 AM
07/17/21 06:37 AM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 610
Idaho
B
bearcat2 Offline
trapper
bearcat2  Offline
trapper
B

Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 610
Idaho
Originally Posted by LT GREY
Originally Posted by Swamp Wolf
Wax the double longs. It makes them easier to set over your knee.


And then you can't keep the springs in place .
Wax a DLS to set under water ?
I almost want to ask if you're kidding !?


Absolutely not! Waxed doublelong spring beaver traps my whole life, and will continue to. They do set easier as Swamp Wolf says, but never really thought of that as a reason to wax them before, but they go off faster, and I absolutely want any trap I am going to set under water the whole time waxed to protect it.

Guess I've never had a problem with the springs staying in place while I set the trap, so I'm not even sure what you are talking about. But then almost all the double longsprings I've used since I was old enough to break a #2 over my knee have been waxed. Break it over your knee, stick one spring under the opposite leg to hold it compressed, and hold the other spring down with one hand while setting the dog and pan with your free hand. What is there for the spring not to stay in place?

Re: Footholding beavs with #5 longsprings? [Re: Carolina Foxer] #7307814
07/17/21 06:45 AM
07/17/21 06:45 AM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 610
Idaho
B
bearcat2 Offline
trapper
bearcat2  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 610
Idaho
And I'm with Alaska Viking, never seen the need for those huge traps for beaver, I far prefer a #4 over a #3 but I certainly never many pullouts in #3s. I usually set for front feet regardless of trap, unless the terrain dictates setting for a hind foot because there isn't a good spot to bed shallow for a front foot. Takes a lot less water to drown a front foot caught beaver. Are you guys using offset jaws? I always ran closed jaws and toothed traps for beaver, where legal.

Re: Footholding beavs with #5 longsprings? [Re: Carolina Foxer] #7307843
07/17/21 07:32 AM
07/17/21 07:32 AM
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,818
Garden,Michigan
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Buck (Zandra) Offline
trapper
Buck (Zandra)  Offline
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,818
Garden,Michigan
The comment about not waxing lonspring has nothing to do with how to set one.It has to do with the springs not staying put on the dog side of the trap.I'm sure LT.Grey had a grin with somebody giving him instructions on how they set a longspring

Last edited by Buck (Zandra); 07/17/21 07:33 AM.

Buck(formely known as Zandra)
Re: Footholding beavs with #5 longsprings? [Re: Carolina Foxer] #7308010
07/17/21 12:13 PM
07/17/21 12:13 PM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 610
Idaho
B
bearcat2 Offline
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bearcat2  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 610
Idaho
Okay, still never had a problem. They do pivot much easier waxed, but never had a problem with them pivoting back on their own. Why I'm confused as to what he was talking about. On the other hand, I could count the number of times I've used unwaxed longsprings on my fingers, so I'm necessarily comparing to setting unwaxed longsprings in the shop, so I don't have any comparision.

I realize LT has a lot of experience, I wasn't disparaging him, I detailed how I set so he could point out the specific spot he was talking about the spring not staying in place, because I couldn't recall ever having a problem.

Re: Footholding beavs with #5 longsprings? [Re: Carolina Foxer] #7308038
07/17/21 01:00 PM
07/17/21 01:00 PM
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,818
Garden,Michigan
B
Buck (Zandra) Offline
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Buck (Zandra)  Offline
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,818
Garden,Michigan
Personally,I wax all my longsprings too,predator and water.Some don't slap back at ya,and others are certified pain in the backside.I also believe the reason why the Lt. Modifies No.5 s for beaver is he long chains his beaver,there's always a chance they don't drown.I know this because we've had this discussion before.


Buck(formely known as Zandra)
Re: Footholding beavs with #5 longsprings? [Re: Carolina Foxer] #7309210
07/19/21 12:44 PM
07/19/21 12:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 584
Wyoming
T
thedude055 Offline
trapper
thedude055  Offline
trapper
T

Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 584
Wyoming
My primary Beaver traps are Victor 3's and Bridger #5 longsprings. I like the Bridgers more I think but am glad after all of the work toting and walking in and out that all of my traps arent #5's. I have applications where the #5 is the go to trap and others where the #3 is my go to. It is all about how I personally trap and work beavers in a creek pond lake or river. I find myself running more longsprings than Coni's these days and i dont know why. I dont think it is success based i think i just enjoy longspring trappin in the water more than anything else really. Like Lt stated all of my longsprings are modded with Pit pans. Old Victors have the bar across the bottom like I see on his. I didnt see the need on the bridgers but I also dont get after it at times like Lt does thats for sure. I do not paint dye or treat my longsprings currently. Just clean grease off and roll with them. One thing I am on the fence about and I will certainly listen to the experts on is I dont base plate and center or corner baseplate my long springs. I still run them on the spring slide. In my drowner setup i thin kthey work fine that way and it seems to help me get flat settings in really rocky creeks and waterways. I also like the reach of having the cable (cable drowners here) away from the set a little bit more? I dont know if that actually helps or not but i do get the warm and fuzzies about it.


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Re: Footholding beavs with #5 longsprings? [Re: Carolina Foxer] #7309454
07/19/21 09:05 PM
07/19/21 09:05 PM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 610
Idaho
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bearcat2 Offline
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bearcat2  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 610
Idaho
I like most of mine attached to the spring for the same reason, just put the drowner very close to the spring, not on the end of an 8-12" chain but usually just a link or at most two. I do have a couple that are attached to the center crossbar under the loose jaw, that I use when I am in real shallow water. By the time you get the drowning wire (or cable, if you are using cable) out from under the trap (and I like it out of the beavers runway more importantly) you really only gain a couple inches of drowning depth at most. Sometimes that couple inches makes a difference trapping in these small mountain stream, though.

Re: Footholding beavs with #5 longsprings? [Re: Carolina Foxer] #7310733
07/21/21 12:54 PM
07/21/21 12:54 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 231
MI
G
glf Offline
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glf  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 231
MI
I have caught many beaver in the long spring traps. I have noticed foot slippage in the traps that did not have very strong springs. You can see it for yourself, just look at the foot position in relation to the trap pan. Setting shallow is no guarantee you will not catch a beaver by the back foot. The less than very strong traps will lead to pullouts. I'm not talking about those sissy 50pound beaver I am talking about big beaver. I no longer use any long spring traps for beaver. BUT..... Use what works for you.

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