Re: Logwood dye question
[Re: ToCatchAPredator]
#7624597
07/11/22 08:49 PM
07/11/22 08:49 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,827 sw iowa
Outlaw99
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,827
sw iowa
|
I’m sure different soils affect steel differently in different country. 1 season with multiple catches and my traps are real rusty. I’m not worried about that affecting my catch, but I am worried about it progressing and degrading the quality of my iron. That’s why I dye all my users after a season. New traps usually get sat out in the elements for a few weeks to naturally rinse off some oil or they get ran. Everything gets waxed. Everyone’s got a different situation, this is just what works for me.
Not everyone likes me, but not everyone matters
|
|
|
Re: Logwood dye question
[Re: ToCatchAPredator]
#7624666
07/11/22 10:13 PM
07/11/22 10:13 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 552 Maine
andrews1958
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 552
Maine
|
First time using the logwood dye, last season I started out and dyed all my traps with stag horn Schumac. First time dying traps with logwood crystals and notice a certain scent with it. Question is does it dissipate and if not do predators smell it? First time using the logwood dye, last season I started out and dyed all my traps with stag horn Schumac. First time dying traps with logwood crystals and notice a certain scent with it. Question is does it dissipate and if not do predators smell it? I do it cause I love the smell of logwood and it gets me in trapping mode!
|
|
|
Re: Logwood dye question
[Re: Boone Liane]
#7625031
07/12/22 01:45 PM
07/12/22 01:45 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,524 james bay frontierOnt.
Boco
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,524
james bay frontierOnt.
|
I dye (boil) for a couple reasons.
Used traps are gonna rust. Period. And you need to do something annually to that rust. You can scrub on em with a wire brush, vinegar bath them, tumble em in a cement mixer with gravel, or neutralize that new crop of rust with high tannin solutions (even if it is just temporarily) .
I’m not gonna hand scrub 600+ traps.
Vinegar, while ok for occasional use on badly rusted traps is not something I want to annually do to traps, because vinegar is as bad for the steel as the rust is. Both rust and vinegar etch steel, pit steel, which causes them to rust faster the second time around. No thanks.
I’m not gonna tumble 600+ traps in a cement mixer to shine them up.
But I can dye and wax 600+ traps in about 8 hours.
It’s a great deodorizer. I pressure wash all my traps before dying. But I can pressure wash a skunked up trap till my eyes bleed and still smell skunk.
And it’s the only treatment (besides wax), I can use one day and catch coyotes with the next. Plus, I firmly believe waxed traps function better and better resist freezing down in nasty, wet and freezing conditions.
I’ve used a lot of dips. Every one I’ve used needs time to air out, and time to cure before use.
New traps can just be degreased and waxed. But with use comes rust.
Good post,agree 100%
Forget that fear of gravity-get a little savagery in your life.
|
|
|
Re: Logwood dye question
[Re: LT GREY]
#7625939
07/13/22 08:28 PM
07/13/22 08:28 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,827 sw iowa
Outlaw99
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,827
sw iowa
|
Who remembers when they had the (actual) black crystals and does anyone sell them anymore ?
Marty Smith with Kegcreeklures has it, it’s good stuff
Not everyone likes me, but not everyone matters
|
|
|
Re: Logwood dye question
[Re: The Beav]
#7626386
07/14/22 12:01 PM
07/14/22 12:01 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,480 Idaho
bearcat2
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,480
Idaho
|
So you rust your traps to take the dye. Then you dye the traps In a hot dye solution. Then you take the traps out and hang to dry and they begin to rust as they dry. Then you cover the dye with wax. But If that gives you confidence In your catch rate then that's what you should do. No I don't rust my traps to dye, but I do dye traps that are already rusted. I've a couple traps that are fifteen years old and still have a lot of silver showing, unlike their littermates they never rusted much, all those traps bought at that time I waxed brand new and went to using. Those couple apparently never caught much/had the wax knocked off of them so they never developed rust in a lot of places to take the dye. They are ran through the dye pot and waxed every year, but they are kind of mottled black and silver gray because the dye doesn't take on the clean steel. And I've some traps that were dyed and waxed fifteen years ago (with the wax melted on top of the water of the dye pot, so no chance to "dry" before being waxed) and haven't been used since, just hung on the side of the shed. (Bunch of Victor #3 dbls beaver traps, I don't trap near as many beaver as I used to, and always set all my #4s and B&Ls first because I like them better, and haven't had to break into a few dozen of my #3 spares) Those traps are as nice a black without a drop of rust on them, as they were the day I pulled them out of the pot. So I will argue the dye and wax does protect them and they do not begin to rust as soon as you pull them out.
|
|
|
Re: Logwood dye question
[Re: Boco]
#7626391
07/14/22 12:04 PM
07/14/22 12:04 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,480 Idaho
bearcat2
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,480
Idaho
|
I dye (boil) for a couple reasons.
Used traps are gonna rust. Period. And you need to do something annually to that rust. You can scrub on em with a wire brush, vinegar bath them, tumble em in a cement mixer with gravel, or neutralize that new crop of rust with high tannin solutions (even if it is just temporarily) .
I’m not gonna hand scrub 600+ traps.
Vinegar, while ok for occasional use on badly rusted traps is not something I want to annually do to traps, because vinegar is as bad for the steel as the rust is. Both rust and vinegar etch steel, pit steel, which causes them to rust faster the second time around. No thanks.
I’m not gonna tumble 600+ traps in a cement mixer to shine them up.
But I can dye and wax 600+ traps in about 8 hours.
It’s a great deodorizer. I pressure wash all my traps before dying. But I can pressure wash a skunked up trap till my eyes bleed and still smell skunk.
And it’s the only treatment (besides wax), I can use one day and catch coyotes with the next. Plus, I firmly believe waxed traps function better and better resist freezing down in nasty, wet and freezing conditions.
I’ve used a lot of dips. Every one I’ve used needs time to air out, and time to cure before use.
New traps can just be degreased and waxed. But with use comes rust.
Good post,agree 100% x3 With the caveat that I am dipping all my newer canine traps in white paint for snow use. I've got to air them for a while though, and they don't hold up to rust as well as dyed and waxed traps.
|
|
|
|
|