I have 1 board for otter, I rember be told to run the belly wedge from top to bottom the opposite way because hard remove from board. I rember strain back with pull muscles in past from try take otter off board, is it better use a no. 4 wire coon stretcher ?

No, use the proper sized wood board and a belly board from each direction if you have them. Even a belly board from a coon board will help.

I run a board up the belly and a smaller up the back up to the nose. That head really grips the board.

use a small piece of parchment paper around the head area on the board, as 160user say belly wedges.
When you are ready and it is dry, if you can freeze the dried fur and forming board and take out of freezer and nose drop the board on the floor, shock waves will loosen the hide up
the paper helps in a no-stick application in the tough area

it is cold enough out here to place outdoors at 0F and skip the freezer

That sound like idea to put small belly wedge up the back an have 1 in front also , but then u got belly wedge by tail with pushpins on skin by it

and one down the throat. Otters are tough to get of boards once dried.
bottom of my boards have a hole that a cord goes through and anchored looped to my foot when I pull off, and always start from the neck area to pull off

I usually take coon of board by lay head on floor with vice grips lay inside nose an stand on visegrips with foot an pull up on board, otter are tough around head. So u should put belly wedge on both sides ?

I put a large belly board up the center of the belly, then a coon belly board each side of that. 3 belly boards on the belly side. Make sure they all go to the mouth. When taking off the board, take out the wedges. Then as said above, drop the stretcher nose first on the ground a few times. That will help loosen the hide on the form. I then put the form in a vice and pull the hide off.

If it was me. I would split the stretcher down the center and make it into a two piece. Open it a half inch and not fight the belly boards and getting fur off.

Plastic bag over the board helps too. do this with several pelts of different species......jk

A fellow gave me a couple of those types of boards for just that purpose. They worked, irs been a long while however and I didn’t have many to do even back then.

Osky

You only need one when it is stuck and you fight it for hours. I never saw the advantage of a one piece board. To me they are just a pain. I even had split mink boards at one time.

Coonman, this is the way we do it.

newfox1 That is the way to go. Easy on, easy off.

Looking good 👍

I have mink boards a few like that

The otter came off board easy with 2 belly wedges,1 from throat down an other up like normally do. Now stretch other otter

The eye holes on pelt are very small. The one otter has been tag an 1 stretch tommorw are not yet tag, what would be very best to do or leave in eye hole that can remove from eye hole after dry off board, so as leave to for tag ? The co say I could wait till late season to get tag, as possibly get 3 Rd otter an get both tag one trip

with the eye hole if you have a 1/4 " bolt place it in hole before drying then remove when dry.The tags should go through there
You are putting the otter on a forming board, as stretch is not what is wanted.