I keeps hearing alot about refusals on conventional solid 220 boxes. I’m wanting to start using 220’s to control coons for turkeys but mainly because I snare hogs and coons are out competing the hogs for the sour mash I’m using for bait. So here it is. Build the box frame with 2x2’s then put enough plywood on the sides to hold the 220 accommodating the slots then use limbs on the outside with a solid bottom. I’m thinking with a more natural appearance it may make them more comfortable going in. What say you? Yes I have alot of time on my hands.

I don't think it will help. Now, if you place a foothold in front of that and call it a bobcat set, every coon in the country will be fighting to get caught.

Make it open on both ends with 220’s there, at least 12-18” between traps.

Can you trail set 220’s in your state? If so dump the box and set the trails.

I don't seem to have refusals with the set up we have to use in PA. The boxes have to have the trap trigger 7" from the opening & the opening must be 50 square inches max.
Don't know if that helps not refusing or not. A trap immediately in their face at end of box may make them think twice?? With PA set-up they are kinda committed & go for it ?
Choice of bait/lure is probably a big deciding factor

I run an L shaped trigger when I run boxes and don’t think I get many refusals. The L shape trigger will allow smaller critters to come and go , unless it’s just not their day.

How do you even know how many walk by? Unless you have a camera on it or it's in mud?
Just seems like there's a lot easier ways to catch coons.

I'd go with DP's until I knew for sure they were not going to work for you. The right bait should be more appealing to them than the hog bait.

220 boxes catch coons, somewhat, but what happens to your trap if a hog gets in it?

Coon do not care about how natural something is…anchor a box on the side of a tree SOLID so the opening is facing down and only 5 or 6 inches off the ground with the trap recessed into the box 4 or 5 inches. Coon will push their way in and up head first and it will be over. This type of setup avoids dogs and I would think hogs too.

Some great ideas. Have never used a box this far south it did try do’s with little success several different baits did use a camera they more times than not as soon as they had found the mash they went straight for it. I did use footholds in trails I had snares on and did have some success but they are coming from so many different directions it didn’t come close to stopping them. When I put footholds at the bait holes it caught them but they wrecked the fencing. I finally got 2 220’s and put them on each side of a fenced bait hole and they pounded them caught 5 in 3 nights but the hogs wouldn’t come in with dead coons on top of the bait hole. Once I put the whack on them they left that spot alone , but they didn’t slow them down on the other locations. Plus 3 different properties and same thing on each one (mainly all wet bottom land).

About 90% of what we run for raccoons are boxes. They're quick, especially if you prebait and preset them at your shed or shop. Throw them out, take the safety's off and you're ready to go.

good read, I use buckets same as boxes.

Listening to others who trap in the south....food is everywhere. The coons in the midwest/farther north not so much unless around livestock.
The coons know where the mash is and they know it is easy to access...they have "mash" on their brain. It seems to me you need to condition those coon
to your boxes/cubbies by feeding them fish, bacon grease, or other edibles they like BEFORE they can access the mash. It's not the box set up...it's the access to easy food.
Just my take

I ran a good number of boxes at one time. We have a pretty low coon population compared to a lot of places. But they are fast to set and are ready to go with out messing with them for quite some time. As far as refusals go, I ran two dozen DP's and a box four to five feet apart with the same bait for a couple months. I only once caught a coon in a DP by a box.

AND you can leave the boxes out on the line all year if you choose

I don't have time to watch the videos right now so maybe this was discussed, but I do know this having killed a lot of coons in buckets and boxes. If you put a screen on the back of the box rather than a solid board you will have a lot fewer refusals plus you have better scent distribution.

This is the key to boxes plus they can only get to your bait thru the opening. Catch a coon today, still got bait for tomorrow, unlike a DP or foothold trap.

This is what I was thinking as well from my experiences with coon boxes and DPs. Seems I had far more refusals with the DPs as opposed to boxes where the bigger #220s are used.

I always enjoy posts (or replies) where people have done actual side by side testing on the subject.

Never had time to build boxes always used buckets I’d just heat a piece of rerod with a weed burner then lay it across the opening to burn spring slots then burn a stake hole through the buckets. Fast simple and efficient support system and bait holder.

I’d just be very selective where you use any such setup.