The problem I've been having is that the gas is washing the combustion chamber.

I stated that wrong. It's the intake valves that don't get washed and get carboned up.

Silverado 1500 2.7L Turbo.

Yes, you are going to have to get that truck out at least once a week and let it get up to operating temperature and drive it that way at highway speeds for a while, those tiny turbo engines are not designed for a short commuter type application they are designed to be brought up to operating temperature and kept there for at least a half hour when they are ran. You bought an engine designed for a long distance commuter/delivery type vehicle that is on the road and gets relatively high mileage in a larger vehicle. Not being mean, but you have had the truck a year and haven't driven it enough to actually break it in, it is in effect dry rotting.

Those engines have a redline of 6,000 RPM. That is how they are able to make such a small displacement engine move a full size truck.
I doubt that you ever push that engine much over 1,800 RPM. There's your trouble.
You don't need to drive it over a hundred miles an hour when you take it out, just see what your best time is from zero to whatever the speed limit is a number of times each trip.
That will get your RPM up to 5,000 and make the engine happy.

I won't rule anything out but I specifically asked the dealer Tuesday if I should trade in for a bigger engine & they said no, that that wouldn't help my direct injection issue because of my driving ~style.
Dealers don't always know everything, but I asked the Service Advisor Tuesday & that is what I was told.

2-strokes been doing it for years.

You're not driving far enough to thoroughly heat up everything. That will cause al lot of fuel dilution in your oil and low charge on the battery.

Best method: start the vehicle, do not sit and try to warm it up. Drive away afterno more than 30 seconds and drive far enough one way (6-9 miles) to get everything up to operating temperature.

Cold starts and short trips never allow the piston rings (or anything else) to reach proper operating temperature and SEAL correctly. This has all been proven by people in the oil business by doing various drive cycles and taking oil samples.

Cold starts and short drives will dilute the oil by as much as 40% more fuel than proper start up and getting everything up to temperature before stopping.

2 strokes run with oil in the gas, not gas in the oil.

Too bad the dealer didn’t ask about your driving habits before they sold you that truck. They may have found you a better match.

Most engines now are direct injection.

Find an old beater to drive in the winter, only use the truck for long trips. New vehicles suck, direct injection sucks. For many years I drove 4 miles round trip, if I left the heater off the engine would warm up each way, but I still needed to go for a longer drive every week to burn the gas out of the oil and did charge the battery at least once a month. Still driving that old beater, $8 a month for liability insurance, makes your truck last a lot longer too.

Had a flashing check engine light. Mechanic said most always its an ignition problem. Had it scanned and #3 coil was bad. Cost me $200.
just

It's almost certainly not washing past the rings. The high pressure fuel pump sits on top of/inside the valve cover and runs off of a lobe on the cam. When the leak, they leak internal to the engine, and spray a fine mist of fuel into the engine. This fine mist not only dilutes the oil, but it gets sucked up by the PCV system and burned. Because this extra fuel wasn't metered, it creates a rich condition, which is the cause of your rich codes. I'm kind of surprised the dealer didn't know this. I've done several high pressure fuel pumps for this exact issue on Chevy 4 cylinders. Is it under warranty? My guess is that it's an expensive job and they don't want to warranty it.

I been watching this thread and reading all the posts and finally someone posts the right answer. If your oil is getting overfilled with fuel it has to be leaking in internally. Those high pressure fuel pumps put out over 500 psi of pressure. There is no way your driving style is gonna make the engine spray that much fuel through the fuel injectors to wash down the cylinders and fill the oil in the crankcase with fuel. If that is what really is happening. The only other possible way would be a stuck open/ leaking fuel injector but then you would have a bad misfire/dead cylinder.

Either way the way you drive it has nothing to do with gas getting in your oil and filling the crankcase. The computer reads the coolant sensor and the oxygen sensors and gives the engine the right amount of fuel no matter if the engine is cold or hot. It adjust the amount accordingly.

In short, if your crankcase/oil is getting overfilled with fuel then there has to be a fuel leak going into the engine.

I did a massive amount of research prior to buying the truck, & never came across anything even remotely mentioning a concern related to the issue I'm having.
But Tuesday the dealership said this is a known issue among dealers pertaining to situations where a person drives a 2014 or newer truck that compares to my driving style.

The vehicle is under warranty.

You guys need to re-read what I posted. Until the motor in completely up to temperature, the piston RINGS are not sealing correctly. The fuel mixture is leaking past the rings.

I anyone wants the video I can find it and link you to it.

The battery not staying charged is a separate issue. Not enough drive time to charge. I've seen other Chevy/GMC truck owners with the same problem.

I'll save the response.

The guy wearing glasses is Lake Speed. He works for Total Sealed Piston rings. Has worked with Joe Gibbs racing, and also helped Valvoline formulate the Restore and Protect diesel oil that Valvoline sells.

Bingo. That paragraph is exactly what the Service Manager told me this week.

As for the part in bold, I've never once in the past year started it up just to let it idle, so that aspect isn't the problem with the truck in my driveway. The part in bold is my normal routine.

I started using the block heater Wednesday for the 1st time ever. It seems to be helping immensely, however GM's block heater chord comes with a built in thermostat so the block heater won't operate if the outside air temp is above 0°. We're in a stretch though where ~9 out of 10 nights have been below 0.

This is a good thread. Hopefully it also helps others avoid the problem I had/have.

Block heaters are a big plus.