Those of us who don't know any better will continue to use the KB stabilizer where appropriate.

#330s on the KB can easily be stabilized with the addition of one stick through the corner of the jaws. You can do the same with any bodygrip and you'll have a stable unit. One stick.

Another reason to use the KB is it allows the beaver to kick out of the set area. The problem with a stand is it keeps the dead critter in place. I would rather have that bottom edge location freed up for the next critter to swim through and not find his dead buddy laying there.

CD2 . . if I had to deal with rocky stream bottoms I would copy your design in a heartbeat. Very nice.

One thing I have done to most of my KB's, is spread the legs open about 10-15 degrees, making them a slight X shape, instead of parallel to each other.

In swift water and or, inside large culverts I would use two.

You nailed it Mike!!!

I don't have rocky streams....just muddy and sandy bottoms. Your stabilizer looks like it would work great for 330s, but ol'Boco won't like it.

I can't take credit for them. That's the Hammer's design. 11"x7" with 1/2" rebar. They work good on their own but if you can set a rock on one or both of the springs an alligator couldn't knock it over

You can see the big rocks I set on the springs in some of these pics.

No sense in beating a dead horse. But you can' t adjust your height with a kb.
I don't see how you could stabilize 330 or a 280 in a dam break or in a wet cross over. Or when setting a beaver pull out or castor mound set when you need to have the trap half under the water, so the triggers aren't exposed.
With 2 short stakes you can adjust the trap and the fine adjustment Is when you either push the springs down to raise the trap or pull them up to lower the trap. And those short stakes allow the beaver or otter to get off the stabilizing stakes. And with the staking system you don't have to screw around tying on some extra gear. And the best part wood Is FREE.
I can see the use of a KB in a rat trapping or mink trapping when making a B&E set.
I never tried them, but I bet the Hagz bracket system would work Better then a KB system. Drive in the stake slide the trap down the stake till it rests on the bottom. Or what's wrong with using 120. Slid it down the stake keep the bottom spring flat and pull up on the top spring, so the trap locks up against the stake. Just leave a 6" or so at the bottom so you can stick it in the bottom. There are all kinds of systems that will out preform a KB.
Oh well to each his own.

Still better than toting an armload of 'backer sticks around Beav....lol

Never tried 'em . . . but there are all kinds of systems that will out perform 'em. Hmmmmm . . . me thinks the Beav missed his calling when they cast the crew for the Red Green Show. He would've made a great Red Shaughnessy!

Hey rat lets go to South Carolina and you bring your KBs and I'll haul around bacca sticks and we will see who comes out on top. LOL

KB stabilizers are another tool in the tool box. If you like them, use them. If you don't like them, use something else. I have never had a beaver or otter or any other critter complain about them.

And according to Wheelers........

The above was posted by him on another thread today.

I agree. Have a few and use them situations using related to rocky conditions a handful of times a year.

I read a lot of the thread but not all. If I could have one and only one commercially made bodygrip stabilizer it would hands down be the KB. Frozen shore early spring beaver trapping they are the best! So many scenarios they are all I need with a small stick for aid here and there. I’ll likely be making some new ones of my own similar to Seldoms. I trap muck, rock, frozen ground, you name it, I love em.

As far as the tangle deal, I don’t think they’re too bad. I have the big steel carabiners on cable hooking them to the inside of the spring eyes. Happy trapping! ScottW